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Coastal Keywords

Page history last edited by Stephanie Richards 14 years, 2 months ago

Wave frequency: the number of waves per minute

 

Wave Crest: the highest point of a wave

 

Wave Trough: the lowest point of a wave

 

Wave Steepness: ratio of wave height to wave length (>1.7 then wave breaks)

 

Wave Period: time it takes for a wave to travel one wavelength

 

Wave energy: (wavelength x wave height) squared

N.B. a small increase in height will result in a large increase in energy

 

Swash: water going up a beach

 

Backwash: water going down a beach

 

Fetch: distance over which wind blew

 

Differential erosion: different rates of erosion between different types of rock

 

Attrition: sediment particles hit each other and make smooth rounded pebbles

 

Corrosion/Solution: sea water dissolves rock or minerals

 

Abrasion: rocks are thrown at cliff breaking sections off

 

Hydraulic Action: water is forced into cracks, increasing air pressure and causing small explosions. Rock is weakened and cracks are widened.

 

Subaerial weathering: weathering that happens to coastline above sea level

 

Freeze-thaw: process by which rock is weakened by water continually freezing and thawing in cracks

 

Pressure release: Pressure from surrounding rocks is removed. This causes expansion.

 

Biological weathering: when living things break up the rock

 

Oxidation: where rocks containing metals are exposed to water or oxygen, breaking them down.

 

Hydration: where permeable rocks absorb water and swell, making them more susceptible to decomposition.

 

Hydrolysis: where H+ and OH- ions in the water combine with ions found in minerals.

 

Carbonation: weak acid in rain water formed by CO2 mixing with rain is strong enough to weather rocks like limetone.

N.B. Natural process.

 

Solution: dissolving action of water on rocks.

 

Acid rain: CO2, NO2 amd SO2 mix in atmosphere to form acid rain. Limestone and sandstones are particularly vulnerable.

N.B. Man-made process

 

Mass movement: downslope movement of rocks, regolith or soil due to the force of gravity outweighing the resisting force that supports the material.

 

Lithology: characteristics of the rock

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